Cartier watches | Pre-owned & Vintage

Our selection of the best Cartier watches currently available online. Pre-owned and vintage models.
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We've been collecting rare vintage Cartier watches for over two decades, and we understand what serious collectors are searching for. The market for pre-owned Cartier timepieces has exploded in recent years, with pieces from the 1970s and earlier frequently selling for 5-10 times their original retail price. The iconic Tank and Santos models remain the most coveted in the vintage market, with pristine examples from the 1920s sometimes fetching upwards of $25,000 at auction. Whether you're looking to add a piece of Cartier history to your collection or trying to determine the value of an inherited watch, we'll guide you through this fascinating world of horological treasures.

A selection of pre-owned Cartier watches

Watch-Deal selects the best pre-owned Cartier watches available online. We help our visitors, Cartier watch collectors, to find vintage Cartier watches and rare models online. You are looking for a pre-owned Cartier Tank watch, a Cartier Ballon Bleur or a Cartier Santos, you are on the right page to find it. If you like Cartier wristwatches, pay attention to our selection and have a look to our page from time to time. 

RARE CARTIER WATCHES FOR COLLECTORS :

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The rarest Cartier watches for collectors

We select the most sought-after authentic Cartier watches for watch fans. From the mythical Cartier Tank Francaise, but also the famous Cartier Santos and many other rare Cartier watches. We choose Cartier watches for men but also some very nice ladies Cartier watches. Cartier has always been a very famous brand both in horology and in jewelry. 

Cartier Ballon Bleu
This pre-owned Cartier Ballon Bleu has been sold for $2,650.00

Pre-owned Cartier watches for women: Timeless elegance and value

We've noticed a significant surge in demand for pre-owned Cartier watches among female collectors and first-time luxury buyers. The vintage women's collections offer exceptional value compared to current retail prices, often at 30-40% below new models with comparable gold content. What makes these pieces particularly appealing is their versatility—many ladies models from the 1970s-1990s feature case sizes that align perfectly with today's preference for slightly larger women's watches.

The Tank Française and Tank Américaine remain perennial favorites among women seeking pre-owned Cartier watches. Their rectangular cases complement both casual and formal attire, making them true everyday luxury pieces. We recently helped a client source a 1990s Tank Française in yellow gold that perfectly matched her grandmother's vintage version—creating a meaningful connection across generations.

For women preferring more distinctive shapes, pre-owned Panthère and Baignoire models offer uniquely feminine silhouettes. The Panthère's bracelet design in particular makes it one of the most comfortable watches for daily wear, explaining its enduring popularity decades after initial release. The rare colored dial variants command premium prices but make striking additions to any collection.

Size considerations are important when selecting vintage women's Cartier. While contemporary ladies pieces average 28-33mm, vintage women's models were typically smaller at 20-25mm. This evolution reflects changing tastes and the broader trend toward larger timepieces. Many of our female collectors specifically seek these smaller vintage dimensions for their elegant proportions and discrete presence.

  • Most versatile: Pre-owned Tank Française in two-tone finish
  • Best value: 1990s Santos Galbée in yellow gold
  • Most distinctive: Oval Baignoire models from the 1980s
  • Best investment: Limited edition Tank variants with colored dials

Authentication remains particularly important in the women's vintage market. Because these pieces were often given as gifts, documentation may be incomplete. We recommend working with reputable dealers who specialize in authenticating vintage Cartier watches rather than relying solely on online marketplaces. The small premium paid for expert verification is insignificant compared to the risk of acquiring counterfeit pieces.

Many of our female clients appreciate the sustainability aspect of choosing pre-owned watches. By selecting vintage Cartier, they're not only acquiring a piece of horological history but also making an environmentally conscious choice that aligns with modern values while enjoying truly timeless craftsmanship.

A vintage Cartier Tank
A rare vintage Cartier Tank 18K Gold Ref 7808613286

Pre-owned Cartier watches for men: Sophisticated investments with character

We find that pre-owned Cartier watches for men offer exceptional value propositions that new pieces simply can't match. The secondary market for men's Cartier has evolved significantly, with vintage pieces from the 1960s-1990s appreciating steadily as modern collectors recognize their historical significance. The Santos line remains particularly sought after, with early examples featuring the distinctive screwed bezel and integrated bracelet commanding strong prices and steady appreciation.

Many male collectors are drawn to vintage Tank models for their understated elegance and cultural significance. The Tank Louis in particular has adorned the wrists of notable men throughout history—from Andy Warhol to Muhammad Ali. We recently assisted a client in acquiring a 1970s Tank that belonged to a prominent politician, complete with period-correct deployant buckle and original box. The piece carried both historical relevance and investment potential.

Case sizes for pre-owned men's Cartier watches tend to be more modest than contemporary standards. While modern men's watches often exceed 40mm, vintage Cartier pieces typically measure 33-38mm. This more restrained sizing has actually fueled renewed interest as today's collectors increasingly appreciate refined proportions over oversized statements. The Tank XL and larger Santos variants bridge this gap for those preferring substantial wrist presence.

Movement options in men's vintage pieces follow clear historical patterns. Early examples exclusively feature high-grade manual movements, while the 1970s introduced reliable quartz calibers. By the 1980s-90s, automatic options became more prevalent. Serious collectors typically prize the early mechanical pieces most highly, though each era offers distinct advantages.

  • Most versatile: Pre-owned Santos Galbée XL in stainless steel
  • Best formal watch: Vintage Tank Louis in yellow gold
  • Most distinctive: Pasha chronograph from the 1990s
  • Best value: Ballon Bleu in 42mm from early production years

Condition considerations differ somewhat for men's pieces versus women's collections. Men's watches typically show more wear on case edges and bracelet articulation points due to different wearing patterns. When evaluating pre-owned men's Cartier, we advise clients to accept minor case patina as evidence of authenticity while being more discriminating about dial condition and movement functionality.

The investment trajectory for quality men's vintage Cartier watches continues to trend upward. Limited production numbers combined with increasing collector demand creates a favorable environment for long-term appreciation. Unlike many contemporary luxury watches that depreciate immediately after purchase, carefully selected pre-owned Cartier pieces often maintain or increase their value while providing years of sophisticated enjoyment.

Is it easy to get a Cartier wristwatch ?

Of course, Cartier is a high-end luxury brand but you can find here some rare pre-owned Cartier. Let's give you some precise examples : a Cartier Tank Americaine 18K White Gold Date watch will be around $3800. But a Cartier Tank Obus 16302 18k gold watch will be around $2100. If you want a more affordable model, a Cartier Pasha Ladies 35mm Automatic 2324 will be below $700. Our watches are ranked from the highest to the lowest. 

How to get Cartier watches online ?

It is very easy, have a look to our selection of rare Cartier watches on this page, click on the model you like and we will automatically redirect you towards a merchant site like eBay where you can get it. If you have any questions about a Cartier watch supplier or about a vintage Cartier, feel free to send us an email, we will be happy to help.

Popular vintage Cartier models: From Tank to Santos and beyond

We've seen certain vintage Cartier models consistently captivate collectors over the years. The Tank family reigns supreme, with the Tank Louis standing as the purest expression of Louis Cartier's 1917 original design. Its rectangular case and clean Roman numerals make it instantly recognizable. The Tank Française, introduced in 1996, quickly became a modern classic with its chain-link bracelet and bold squared case.

The Santos holds special significance as Cartier's first men's wristwatch, created in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Early examples with manual movements are particularly treasured by serious collectors. We recently helped a client source a 1970s Santos with its original papers for $9,800 – a relative bargain considering its historical importance.

The Panthère line, while technically discontinued in the early 2000s before its 2017 revival, has developed a cult following. Its flexible bracelet and square case make it distinctly Cartier, yet completely unique. Vintage Panthère models from the 1980s in yellow gold remain highly sought after.

The Pasha represents Cartier's bold departure from rectangular cases. Introduced in 1985, early Pasha models with their distinctive crown cover and grid pattern over the dial command premium prices today. The Ballon Bleu, while relatively recent (2007), has already established vintage market value for early production examples.

  • Most valuable: Pre-1960s Tank models with original movements
  • Most wearable: 1980s Santos in two-tone finish
  • Best investment: Early Tank Américaine limited editions
  • Most undervalued: 1990s Tank Solo in solid gold

Each of these models carries unique design elements that reflect Cartier's evolution while maintaining the brand's distinctive aesthetic. The key to rare pieces lies in understanding production dates, model variations, and the subtle differences that can dramatically affect value in the vintage watches market.

How to authenticate a vintage Cartier watch: Expert tips to avoid fakes

We encounter many collectors who worry about authenticity when purchasing vintage Cartier watches. With good reason too—the market is unfortunately flooded with sophisticated counterfeits. Authentication begins with the case hallmarks. Genuine Cartier pieces have clear, precisely engraved markings including serial numbers, metal purity stamps, and the Cartier signature. These should never appear fuzzy, uneven, or shallow.

The movement inside tells a crucial story about authenticity. Vintage Cartier watches typically housed movements from respected Swiss manufacturers like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, or ETA. We recently examined a supposed 1970s Tank with a generic Chinese movement—an immediate red flag that saved our client from an expensive mistake.

Documentation provides substantial authentication support. Original papers, receipts, and warranty cards dramatically increase confidence and value. Even incomplete documentation can offer valuable provenance. A certified assessment from experts is often worth the investment before purchasing significant pieces.

The condition and wear patterns should make logical sense for the watch's age. A supposedly 50-year-old Cartier in pristine condition without appropriate patina deserves extra scrutiny. Authentic aging appears on case corners, bracelet articulation points, and crown edges.

  • Case details: Check for crisp hallmarks and precision finishing
  • Movement: Should match the appropriate caliber for year and model
  • Crown: Genuine sapphire cabochons with proper setting
  • Dial quality: Precise printing, correct font, and proper Cartier signature

Many collectors rely on authentication service providers who specialize in vintage watches. These professionals can identify original parts versus replacements and assess whether service work has been performed correctly or diminished value. The small fee for authentication can protect you from costly mistakes and provide a guarantee of authenticity when you eventually sell or insure the piece.

Before making any purchase, insist on a return period that allows for independent verification. Legitimate sellers of authenticated vintage Cartier watches understand this requirement and will accommodate serious buyers. Remember that a clean, well-documented provenance is worth paying extra for in this specialized market.

What is the price range for vintage Cartier watches? Investment insights

We've seen the price range for vintage Cartier watches expand dramatically over the past decade. Entry-level pieces like 1990s Tank Solo models in good condition are currently starting around $2,000-3,000, offering an accessible entry point for new collectors. Mid-tier options like 1980s Santos models typically command $5,000-8,000 depending on material and condition. At the premium end, truly rare pieces from the 1920s-1960s regularly fetch $15,000-50,000 at auction.

The market for these timepieces fluctuates based on several factors. Just last month, we watched a 1972 Tank with original box and papers sell for nearly double its estimated value due to unexpected celebrity provenance. Conversely, pieces with replacement parts or questionable service history typically sell at significant discounts.

As an investment, vintage Cartier watches have historically outperformed many traditional investment vehicles. Limited production models like the Tank Cintrée or early Tank Asymétrique examples have appreciated 12-15% annually over the past decade. This exceeds most stock market returns while providing the added benefit of being wearable art.

When buying for investment purposes, focus on rarity, condition, and completeness. A well-preserved 1960s Cartier watch with original box, papers, and service history could potentially double in value within 5-7 years. The most significant appreciation typically occurs in gold models rather than steel versions.

  • Entry level: $2,000-4,000 (1990s models, quartz movements)
  • Mid-range: $5,000-15,000 (1970s-80s classics, solid gold)
  • High-end: $15,000-50,000+ (Pre-1970s, rare models, perfect condition)
  • Ultra-rare: $50,000-250,000+ (Museum-quality pieces, historical significance)

Finding deals requires patience and education. Estate sales and smaller auction houses occasionally present opportunities where pieces are undervalued. We recently helped a client acquire a 1960s ladies gold Cartier for 30% below market value simply because it was inaccurately described in a regional auction catalog.

When selling vintage pieces, consider multiple options. Auction houses typically charge 15-25% in fees but reach the widest audience of serious collectors. Specialist dealers offer immediate liquidity but at 20-30% below retail market prices. Private selling through collector forums can maximize returns but requires more time and effort.

The famous features of vintage Cartier watches : Iconic design elements

We've always believed that Cartier watches stand out through their distinctive design language rather than technical complications. The quintessential Cartier dial features elegant Roman numerals, blue sword-shaped hands, and a secret signature hidden in the numerals. On most vintage pieces, you'll find "Cartier" signed at 7 o'clock within the minute track—a detail counterfeiters often miss.

Case shapes define vintage Cartier timepieces more than any other feature. While most Swiss brands focused on round cases, Cartier embraced geometric diversity with rectangular Tank models, square Santos cases, and even elliptical designs. This architectural approach makes their watches instantly recognizable across a room.

The crown remains another signature element, typically set with a sapphire or blue spinel cabochon. Early vintage models featured larger, more prominent stones, while later pieces show more restrained proportions. We recently examined a 1940s Tank with its original oversized cabochon—a detail that significantly increased its collector appeal and value.

Regarding movements, vintage Cartier watches evolved significantly over time. Pre-1970s models exclusively featured manual wind calibers from elite Swiss suppliers. The introduction of quartz movement options in the late 1970s represented a major shift, while automatic movement variants became more common in the 1980s with models like the Santos.

  • Case materials: Yellow gold dominated until the 1970s; white metals came later
  • Dial variations: Cream/ivory most common; colored dials extremely rare and valuable
  • Bracelet designs: Integrated bracelets with hidden deployant clasps
  • Size evolution: Generally smaller until the 1980s (vintage women's models often just 20-23mm)

The unique design philosophy of Cartier focuses on proportion and harmony rather than complications. This approach created timepieces that appear deceptively simple yet require extraordinary precision in execution. The bezel proportions on vintage Tank models, for example, follow strict geometric rules that create their perfect rectangular balance.

While material quality remains consistently high across decades, vintage pieces typically featured solid precious metals rather than the plated materials sometimes found in modern production. The weight and hand-finishing of these early pieces provide tangible evidence of the exceptional craftsmanship that built Cartier's reputation in the vintage watch world.

How to care for vintage Cartier watches? Preservation essentials

We cannot stress enough how proper care directly impacts both the longevity and value of vintage Cartier watches. Regular maintenance is essential, particularly for mechanical pieces with manual wind or automatic movements. These timepieces should be serviced every 3-5 years by qualified watchmaking professionals. Last year, we witnessed a collector's pristine 1965 Tank develop irreversible movement damage simply because it sat unworn for two decades without proper servicing.

Choosing the right service provider is crucial. While Cartier's in-house service centers offer manufacturer support, they sometimes replace original parts with modern equivalents—potentially diminishing vintage value. Independent experts specializing in vintage pieces often take a more conservation-minded approach, preserving original components whenever possible.

Daily handling requires attention to detail. Even the oils from your fingertips can gradually affect the condition of case surfaces. We recommend using cotton gloves when handling particularly valuable pieces. Water resistance in vintage Cartier watches is typically minimal or non-existent, so keep them away from moisture entirely.

Storage solutions matter significantly. Individual watch pouches prevent scratches when stored in a collection box. Temperature-stable environments away from direct sunlight maintain both movement integrity and dial color. Several collectors we work with invest in humidity-controlled watch safes for their most valuable pieces.

  • Documentation maintenance: Store original papers and service records securely
  • Crystal care: Use only microfiber cloths for acrylic crystals found on vintage models
  • Bracelet attention: Regular gentle cleaning with soft brushes prevents dirt buildup
  • Movement health: Wind manual watches fully but gently every 1-2 days if worn regularly

When a full service is needed, insist on detailed documentation of all work performed. Reputable service centers provide comprehensive reports indicating which parts were cleaned, repaired, or replaced. This documentation becomes part of your watch's history and supports its provenance and warranty claims.

Remember that the patina on vintage pieces often adds character and value. Overly aggressive polishing during service can permanently diminish value by removing case material and softening once-crisp edges. The most crafted restorations balance functionality with historical preservation, maintaining the quality and integrity that makes these timepieces so special in the first place.

The history of Cartier watches: A legacy of horological innovation

We often remind collectors that Cartier's watchmaking heritage began long before wristwatches became fashionable. Founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, the luxury house initially focused on jewelry before expanding into timepieces. The brand's horological journey truly began in 1904 when Louis Cartier created the Santos wristwatch for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont. This revolutionary design marked one of the first purpose-built men's wristwatches in history.

The iconic Tank watch followed in 1917, inspired by the aerial view of military tanks on Western Front battlefields. Its rectangular case and clean lines represented a dramatic departure from the round pocket watch conversions common at that time. We've seen early Tank examples with original movements become some of the most coveted pieces in vintage horology.

By the 1920s, Cartier had established itself as a premier watchmaker, collaborating with legendary Swiss manufacturers like Jaeger-LeCoultre to create movements worthy of their design excellence. The period between the World Wars saw extraordinary craftsmanship with pieces like the Tortue, Tonneau, and Baguette further defining the brand's distinctive aesthetic.

The mid-century brought both challenges and innovations. When the quartz crisis threatened traditional Swiss watchmaking in the 1970s, Cartier embraced new technology while maintaining their commitment to elegant design. The Must de Cartier line launched in 1977 made the brand more accessible while preserving its iconic elements.

  • 1847: Louis-François Cartier founds jewelry house in Paris
  • 1904: First Santos wristwatch created for Alberto Santos-Dumont
  • 1917: Introduction of the revolutionary Tank watch
  • 1970s: Expansion under the "Les Must de Cartier" collection

The 1980s and 1990s saw Cartier reclaim its position at the pinnacle of luxury watchmaking with the reintroduction of mechanical movements and complications. The Pasha, launched in 1985, represented a bold new direction with its round case and distinctive crown protector. This period cemented Cartier's reputation for timeless elegance combined with horological substance.

Throughout its illustrious history, Cartier watches have adorned the wrists of royalty, celebrities, and tastemakers. King Edward VII of England famously referred to Cartier as "the jeweler of kings and the king of jewelers," a testament to the brand's prestigious heritage and enduring appeal that continues to influence the value of vintage pieces in today's collector market.